Three Days in Umbria

During our latest trip to Italy, we spent three days in Umbria. While planning for this latest adventure, we were looking to spend some time off the beaten path since we had already visited some of the more popular destinations. Our research led us to Rastrello, a boutique hotel, in Panicale, Umbria on the boarder with Tuscany. It looked so quaint and inviting that we couldn’t resist booking it.

Prior to our arrival, the amazing staff at Rastrello had reached out to see if we needed any help with planning activities during our stay so we took them up on the offer. Keep reading if you want to know more.

Day 1

After spending two nights in Rome, we headed to Umbria. There are many ways to get there, but we opted to take the train to Perugia, pick up a rental car and drive to Panicale from there. The train ride was an unexpected adventure, but we’ll keep that for another post.

The drive from Perugia to Panicale is only 35 km or approximately 40 minutes and quite scenic. There are plenty of properties lined with tall cypress trees and fields full of red poppies along the way.

Panicale

Most have never heard of Panicale, and we certainly had not either. It’s a small medieval village in Umbria but very close to the border with Tuscany, located on the eastern slope of Mount Petrarvella.

Overlooking the tranquil Lake Trasimeno, this charming town is known for its well-preserved historic center, offering a glimpse into the past with its cobblestone streets, ancient stone buildings, and panoramic views. The main square, Piazza Umberto I, is the heart of this tiny village with its quaint cafes, restaurants, and shops.

We arrived in early afternoon and headed straight to the hotel to check in. There, the most beautiful view of Lake Trasimeno greeted us. And, we enjoyed a glass of prosecco on the terrace enjoying the view.

After dropping our belongings off in our room, we went to the town square to find something to eat. There are only a few restaurants around, not knowing the difference, we went to Il Caffè della Piazza. There we shared a charcuterie board and bruschetta, some of the best we’ve ever had.

After enjoying our food, we decided to walk around town and see what there is to see. It was a very quiet afternoon in early May, not quite tourist season yet. It didn’t take us very long to walk around the village. Most of the streets are too narrow to be reached by car.

For dinner, the hotel recommended dinner at Lillo Tatini, a restaurant just a few steps away from the hotel. It was a great restaurant with delicious food run by a wonderful family. The definite highlight of the meal was the asparagus ravioli, it might have been the best dish we had during our whole trip. We definitely understand why this restaurant has been recognized by Michelin. It offers uniquely Umbrian food, great service and very reasonably priced.

After dinner, we walked back the maybe 100 steps back to the hotel (yes, it’s that close) and it was time for bed.

Day 2

After grabbing breakfast at the hotel, we walked over to DivinPeccato Cafè for a cappuccino before heading out for the day. Our plans for the day included visiting both Orvieto and Città della Pieve.

To get to Orvieto from Panicale there are several options. We decided on one of the scenic routes and it was worth the extra time. The scenery was so beautiful and the greenery so lush. The drive was definitely part of the adventure. It’s quite hilly terrain in that area, so watch out for cyclists, some might even go faster than you down the hills.

Orvieto

Orvieto is a charming hilltop town, known for its stunning medieval architecture and rich history. Perched on dramatic cliff, the town offers breathtaking views of the surrounding countryside. It’s located only 90 minutes away by train, from Rome so a great day trip option.

Orvieto Cathedral

One of the main attractions is the magnificent Orvieto Cathedral, with its intricate Gothic façade. It’s the home to exquisite frescoes and impressive artworks. The construction began in 1290 and went on for almost 3 centuries. It’s considered one of the most beautiful churches in Italy likely due to its bejeweled mosaics take up every inch of the façade not already occupied by sculptures and architectural motifs.

The cost to visit is quite reasonable at 5 euros per person (children under 10 are free). Tickets are sold here. Since our time in Orvieto was limited, we opted not to visit inside. Also, on the day of our visit there was a congregation of Ferraris in the square around the Cathedral which made it quite lively.

After, we spent some time wandering through the narrow, cobblestone streets stopping in some of the little shops. We did pick up some great olive wood souvenirs along the way.

St. Patrick’s Well

Another popular attraction is St. Patrick’s well. Considered “A masterpiece of Renaissance engineering”, it is 175 feet deep, 45 feet wide, and 496 steps down. The work on this well was done in 1537.

The cost to visit is fairly inexpensive, at 5 euros. Sadly, we can’t report on the experience, as there is not a chance that I would venture down. I am far too claustrophobic to do so. Just thinking about it makes me weak.

Rocca Albornoziana is just a few steps away from the well. It’s a historic fortress that was built in the 14th century and situated on a cliff overlooking the town, it features robust defensive walls, a central courtyard, and offers panoramic views of the surrounding Umbrian countryside. Today, it’s a public park and a site of historical interest.

For lunch, we had reservations for Le Grotte del Funaro, another recommendation from Rastrello. It’s a restaurant in a cave and very popular, so make sure reserve ahead of time. At open time, for lunch, several people were turned away since it was already fully booked. The food and service were very good.

Full from lunch, we decided to head to our next stope. Driving on Italian highways was an experience for us. Coins in hand, we were prepared for the tolls. However, not quite ready for the narrow lanes and speed of traffic. If you aren’t a confident driver, it could be a scarry experience.

Città della Pieve

A medieval town known for its striking red-brick architecture, Città della Pieve, perched on a hill offering stunning views of the surrounding countryside. Without a real agenda for our visit, we wandered the narrow streets. It was pretty quite quiet everywhere aside from one of the square where there were some kids activities and a market.

We had originally planned for dinner in Città della Pieve but opted to go back to Panicale for dinner. For dinner we headed to Masolino. Delicious food, great atmosphere and excellent service.

Day 3

Once again we started our day at DivinPeccato Cafè with oven fresh cornettos and cappuccinos.

Fun fact: the cornetto, often confused with the croissant due to the shape, are two products with different characteristics and history. Typical of the Italian tradition, cornetto involves the use of eggs and tends to be sweet and flavored; on the contrary, the croissant has no eggs and has a fairly neutral taste, except for the characteristic hint of butter.

For our morning activity, we had a cooking class organized by the hotel. The class happened to be at the owners private residence just a few kilometers away led by two of the hotel restaurant’s chefs. It’s beautiful property in an olive grove where their gardens grow produce and herbs for the hotel’s restaurant. There, we learned how to make a traditional Umbrian meal. The first dish, chicken stuffed with guanciale and herbs was superb. And, our second dish, hand made pasta, specifically tagliatelle, with ragù was equally delicious.

Wine tasting

Later in the afternoon, we headed to La Querciolana for a wine tasting. It was just down the hill from the hotel so since it was a beautiful day, we decided to walk. La Querciolana is an agri-tourism farm with about 30 hectares of vineyards and olive groves. We are not regular wine drinkers, but do enjoy new experiences whenever we travel.

While at La Querciolana we were able to tour the grounds, see the wine making facilities before the tasting began. During the tasting we tasted about 10 of their wines, each paired with a plate of food ranging from various types of bruschetta, various cheeses and meats. Both the wines and bites were delicious but the star for us was their olive oil. We liked it so much that we purchased 12 bottles and had them shipped to our home.

We had plans of eating dinner at the hotel’s restaurant but we had eaten so much at the wine tasting that we cancelled those plans. However, we sat at the hotel’s outdoor terrace and enjoyed looking at the angry sky.

Day 4

Before leaving for Perugia to dropped off the car and boarded the train for Verona, we stopped by DivinPeccato Cafè one final time.

Frankly, I’m not sure that this post really does convey just how Umbria has captured our hearts. From the beautiful landscapes, to the delicious food and wine and the warm welcoming people, we had the most wonderful experience. We are already talking about our next visit to Umbria.

And, if you are looking for other activity suggestions while in Umbria, the hotel had recommended to us, but we ultimately decided against, here are a few.

• Truffle hunting
• Marmore Waterfall
• Visit to Perugia

Finally, if you are looking for more Italy content, the posts below might be of interest to you.

• Two Week Italy Itinerary
• Visiting Lake Como
• Two Days in Bologna
• Visiting Cinque Terre
• Five Days in Florence

This post may contain affiliate links, which means that we may receive a small commission, at no cost to you, if you make a purchase through a link.